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Istanbul. Land of Cats.
In some strange Anna-fulfiling-stereotypes type way, I have become a cat-afficianado thanks to Istanbul. Orhan Pamuk is constantly referring to the gangs of street cats that wander the streets from Bebek to Kadıköy and oh how spot on. Cats on street corners, at restaurants, riling through trashcans, hissing in the streets, and using every opportunity to alternately maim or steal food from unsuspecting Istanbullu.
I’ve moved into my friend, James’ Cihangir apartment while he is in Spain for the month of August. If anyone wants a wonderful distraction, check out his blog at jamesheywoodistanbul.blogspot.com.
Along with the beautiful, New-York-City-Defying apartment, I have become the temporary guardian of Kebap Heywood, a former street kitty. Thank all deities that I had an insane cat growing up because otherwise this cat might have gotten the better of me. He spends half of his time crawling into my lap only to scratch me and the other half wandering the alleys around the Cihangir Cami. Despite my arms looking like I’m some angsty tween, I have undoubtedly fallen hard for this feline firebrand.
This last weekend most of the Norwegian Delegation took off for minibreaks, leaving me in charge of cat duty. I think I’m turning into one of those crazy cat ladies with as much as I think about cats lately. I need to think about something else. I know…Politics!…wait… no. That’s depressing. Better to stick to cats.
In other news, Michael has left us to return to the states and I am bracing myself for a slew of visitors in the next while including my sister and my best friends. After a few months of trying my hardest to act the part of the local, I think putting on my tourist hat will be a welcome respite.
I was recently asked by the wonderful WMC to advise one of their affiliates on the political climate here in Turkey. If anyone is bored and wants to know about the U.S. election in relation to my take on Turkish politics, please feel free to read through this:
Regardless of which candidate wins the election in the US, we are heading towards a period of strained US-Turkey relations. With the recent Turkish Supreme Court ruling in favor of the American-supported AKP, Turks are torn. While many might be wary of the AKP’s anti-secular bent, there really is no alternative party to support at this point in opposition to the military-controlled Republicans. Along with the general distrust of a party that supports greater integration of religious docterine in policy, there is also growing concern among many here in Turkey that the AKP is simply perpetuating Turkey’s role as an American pawn in geopolitics.
In supporting the AKP, I think America is trying to promote a market/America-friendly version of Islam (which, given the general view of American within many Islamic populations right now, doesn’t sound like a bad idea). The AKP is socially conservative and fiscally liberal; so while ideologically we have supported the “democracy” promoted by the AKP, the retrograde social politics will come back to hurt Turkey’s relations with the EU and America.
Under the AKP, minority, women, and especially Queer rights have suffered huge setbacks. I spent most of June interviewing individuals working on “Onun Hafta” or Pride Week in Istanbul and every conversation came back to the conflict of identity. In the wake of the state’s forced closure of the national LGBTQ organization, Lamda, Queer activists in Turkey held panel after panel discussing the conflict between the practical needs of minorities and ideological opposition to perceived Western imperialism.
Essentially, this marginalized group is stuck between a rock and a hard place. Although they would like to accept money coming from international Queer organizations, to do so indicates to their own communities (inaccurately or not) that Queer activists are pro-Western, pro-US, pro-Iraq War, etc, etc, etc. By not accepting the investments, the Queer community loses the resources it needs to inch forward progressive social policies. This conflict is seen pretty much across the board in Turkish minority culture.
Investors may find themselves in an equally difficult bind. Whereas economic markets may be opening up (most profoundly in the mushrooming Islamist communities), the new source of capital comes at heavy cost in social policy. Can investors reconcile the demands of socially responsible investment with the pursuit of capital in the diverse and relatively stable Turkish market? Is there a way to invest as an American without coming off as an economic imperialist and, thus, pushing Turkish public sentiment farther from the US?
Obama and McCain both represent what even my progressive Turkish friends are eager to label “neo-colonialism” (a term that frustrates me to to no end). The question remains as to which one will do less damage. Should the US continue to support the AKP despite its retrograde approach to human rights? Will Obama’s image help soothe Anti-American sentiments in Turkey? There’s an interesting article from the The New York Observer (which generally I could take or leave) that you might want to check out (http://www.observer.com/2008/turkey-ponders-obama-cure-anti-americanism).
Turkey is a paradox within a paradox and I am still trying to wrap my head around it all.
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i can’t believe that in two days i will be sharing an apartment with a mangy, street-roaming , bloodthirsty creature that will only cause me to sneeze. and also kebap. what luck.
pleasedontthrowmeoutonthestreets.
Comment by definitely not catherine August 9, 2008 @ 6:25 pmLook at you, all smart and intellectual while studying abroad. Hm. I think my brain actually atrophied away while I was galavanting around Europe.
You’re being remarkably adventurous, doing it alone in Turkey and all. I’m glad you’ll get a visit from your friends soon, though.
Everyone needs a little taste of back home once in a while.
If you ever decide to go to Spain/Italy/Germany/England/India (?), let me know, I have friends living there who could show you around
As usual, missing you.
Comment by Priyanka August 9, 2008 @ 8:17 pm